Measuring 101: A Step by Step Easy Measuring Guide for Window Treatments

1. BE PRECISE
   Always measure with a steel tape. Never use a cloth tape. Measure sizes to the nearest eighth of an inch (1/8"). Don't be surprised if your windows are not perfectly square. Most aren't. You probably won't notice. On your notes clearly indicate which measurement is the width and which is the height. It is very common to transpose measurements. Try to always measure the width first, then height.
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3. INSIDE MOUNT (recessed within your window opening)
   We recommend an Inside Mount whenever possible for a neater look.
   
   When you specify an inside mount, provide us the EXACT window opening size. DO NOT TAKE A DEDUCTION!
   
   Manufacturers will automatically deduct approximately 3/8" to 1/2" so your products will operate properly and not rub against your window frame.
   
   FOR WIDTH, measure in three places and use the narrowest width. FOR HEIGHT, measure in three places and use the longest measurement for all products EXCEPT FOR vertical blinds and privacy sheer blinds (sometimes referred to as window shadings) such as WhisperShades (use the shortest height for these).
   
   See the Sill Depth Chart below for the minimum sill depth needed for installation and the minimum needed for the product to be flush with the front.
   
   
4. OUTSIDE MOUNT(mounted on your molding or drywall)
   Outside mounts hang outside the window opening either on the wood frame or above and beyond the wood frame. That will make your window appear bigger and hide unattractive windows. Outside Mounts are necessary whenever your window openings are too shallow to place a window covering. To ensure minimum light gaps and maximum privacy, add 4 to 5 inches on each of the four sides. Leave room for the mounting brackets, which can be 1 to 3 inches tall.
   
   For outside mounts, specify the exact width and exact height you want the product to be. Products will be made to the exact size you specify and we will not take any deductions. So you must add to the window opening measurement to allow for mounting brackets and the distance you want to go past the window. For unique shapes and situations:
   • French doors
   • Tile and wood obstructions
   • Window cranks
   • Sliding Doors
   • Plantation Shutters
   • Arches
   • Windows without a top
   • Shallow sill depth
   • Corner windows

French doors:

The wider and taller you specify your product, the better your privacy, insulation, and light control. You also need room (2" to 3-1/2") for the mounting brackets at the top, and the optional hold-down brackets (about 2") at the bottom. Consider mounting the window treatment a bit higher than you’d think so when the blind is raised it blocks less of your view. Add at least 3" at the top.

For the width, add at least an inch or two on both sides of the glass. Usually the deadbolt latch, however, will constrain the width you’d prefer. The product will usually fall just inside the deadbolt. In the case of a lever handle, the product will slip between the handle and the door.

All products will work on either a wood or metal door. For metal doors, you’ll probably need "metal screws" designed for attaching to metal doors, which are normally hollow.

Tile and wood obstructions:

Sometimes tile or trim wrap around into the window, usually several inches up from the bottom. This is common near kitchen sinks (back-splashes) and bathtubs. Most products can be cut by the manufacturers on the products’ sides to accommodate this. There is a slight surcharge depending on the product and whether the cutout is on one or both sides.

Window cranks:

 Measure so that your product hangs in front of the crank. Consider adding an inch or so to mitigate the slight bulge the product will make as it hangs in front of the crank. Also, the crank can usually be removed or re-positioned to point upwards, which minimizes its projection and obstruction. You may also be able to find a crank replacement device that looks like a wing-nut, and has a tiny projection.

Sliding Doors:

Verticals can be specified to mount either within the door frame or over it on the wall. When determining this, consider whether the handle is an obstruction, and the amount of depth available. There is sometimes molding or trim near the baseboard which may have to be removed, or at least taken into consideration when determining width. For an outside mount it is normally sufficient to measure about 4 inches wider on both sides. The wider you specify, the better your privacy, insulation, and light control. For the height, specify about 3 to 5 inches above the top of the frame. A typical height for a vertical is 84"; however, whatever you prefer is fine. Blinds and shades can be specified as two-on-one headrail. This allows you to raise one while leaving the second one lowered. There is a surcharge for this. You can just order separate products.

Arches:

We’ve found that nearly all arched windows are imperfect (not a perfect semi-circle), but it is best if your shade is made "perfectly". You’ll then use a sharp straight edge to trim the shade as needed. If your width is 60" then your height should be 30". You may instead provide an exact template of the window, imperfections and all, and we’ll have it made to the template.

Windows without a top (arched/angled top):

There is no special measuring required, but you’ll need to ask for side-mount brackets.

Shallow sill depth:

See our charts regarding the manufacturer’s minimum sill depths required to fasten the brackets, and the minimum depth necessary for a flush mount (where the product does not protrude into the room. It has been our experience, however, that only 5/8" to 3/4" is all that is necessary to securely anchor most brackets; you’ll need to angle the screw back towards the glass and occasionally add one extra bracket. No Brainer will not be responsible for products which are not within the manufacturers’ specifications. Give us a call, or email for further explanation.

Corner windows:

When two outside mount verticals meet in a corner, or when other inside mount products meet in a corner where there is only glass (no sheetrock), there can be a privacy problem. That's due to a gap where the products "meet". In order to minimize the problem, consider making one product bypass the other, then specify the other product to butt into the first. (See illustration below.)